PRECIOUS METALS GUIDE

Traditional metals used in jewelry are "noble metals": silver, gold and a group of platinum metals (including platinum and palladium). Reputable metals are so named because of their ability to withstand corrosion and oxidation and their chemical stability. Modern jewelery is very different and makes more variety than ever before. This is due to the use of new types of metals and alloys used to make jewelry.

With the use of alloys, two or more metals or compounds can be combined to give a lead metal object certain properties different from its metal properties. The main purpose of alloys in jewelry is to give metals the most desirable properties. For example, pure gold (24 karat gold) is very soft to wear for a long time and would easily scratch. Most gold jewelry consists of 14 carat gold or 18 carat gold containing gold mixed with other alloys, usually silver, nickel, copper or zinc. Unique silver is silver blended with alloys to make it stronger. Pure silver is 92.5% pure silver usually mixed with 7.5% copper.

METAL PURITIES

JEWELRY CLASSIFICATION PURITY NOBLE METAL/COMMON ALLOYS
24 karat (24k) gold 99.90% Pure gold
18 karat (18k) gold 75.00% Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy
14 karat (14k) gold 58.33% Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy
10 karat (10k) gold 41.66% Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy
Silver 99.90% Pure silver
Sterling Silver 92.50% Silver with copper alloy

PRECIOUS METAL CHARACTERISTICS

METAL HARDNESS LEVEL (MOHS SCALE) COMMON ALLOYS PROS CONS
24k yellow gold 2.5 brilliant luster too soft for most jewelry
18k yellow gold 2.75 silver, copper, zinc, nickel, palladium alloys used make gold more durable for everyday wear nickel alloy can have allergenic properties
14k yellow gold 3-4 alloys used make gold more durable for everyday wear nickel alloy can have allergenic properties
white gold 2.8-4.0 silver, palladium, nickel less expensive alternative to platinum can have allergenic properties; rhodium plating will eventually wear off
silver 2.5 copper low price point susceptible to scratches
platinum 3.5 ruthenium, iridium, platinum hypoallergenic, will retain white color susceptible to scratches, prongs can bend
palladium 4.5 ruthenium, iridium hypoallergenic, maintains natural white color, great luster enhances gems, naturally strong metal, lighter than platinum susceptible to scratches, more sensitive to acids, won't take a high polish well
tungsten carbide 9 carbon hypoallergenic, low price point, maintains white color forever, looks great after years of wear not a precious metal, can chip or shatter, can oxidize; cannot be sized
tungsten 7.5 hypoallergenic, resists scratches, especially useful for brushed jewelry designs not a precious metal; cannot be sized
stainless steel 6.5 carbon, iron resists corrosion and staining not a precious metal; cannot be sized
titanium 6 aluminum, iron, tin hypoallergenic, high tensile strength, resists corrosion, light weight susceptible to scratches; cannot be sized