PRECIOUS METALS GUIDE
Traditional metals used in jewelry are "noble metals": silver, gold and a group of platinum metals (including platinum and palladium). Reputable metals are so named because of their ability to withstand corrosion and oxidation and their chemical stability. Modern jewelery is very different and makes more variety than ever before. This is due to the use of new types of metals and alloys used to make jewelry.
With the use of alloys, two or more metals or compounds can be combined to give a lead metal object certain properties different from its metal properties. The main purpose of alloys in jewelry is to give metals the most desirable properties. For example, pure gold (24 karat gold) is very soft to wear for a long time and would easily scratch. Most gold jewelry consists of 14 carat gold or 18 carat gold containing gold mixed with other alloys, usually silver, nickel, copper or zinc. Unique silver is silver blended with alloys to make it stronger. Pure silver is 92.5% pure silver usually mixed with 7.5% copper.
METAL PURITIES
JEWELRY CLASSIFICATION | PURITY | NOBLE METAL/COMMON ALLOYS |
---|---|---|
24 karat (24k) gold | 99.90% | Pure gold |
18 karat (18k) gold | 75.00% | Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy |
14 karat (14k) gold | 58.33% | Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy |
10 karat (10k) gold | 41.66% | Gold with nickel, copper or zinc alloy |
Silver | 99.90% | Pure silver |
Sterling Silver | 92.50% | Silver with copper alloy |
PRECIOUS METAL CHARACTERISTICS
METAL | HARDNESS LEVEL (MOHS SCALE) | COMMON ALLOYS | PROS | CONS |
---|---|---|---|---|
24k yellow gold | 2.5 | brilliant luster | too soft for most jewelry | |
18k yellow gold | 2.75 | silver, copper, zinc, nickel, palladium | alloys used make gold more durable for everyday wear | nickel alloy can have allergenic properties |
14k yellow gold | 3-4 | alloys used make gold more durable for everyday wear | nickel alloy can have allergenic properties | |
white gold | 2.8-4.0 | silver, palladium, nickel | less expensive alternative to platinum | can have allergenic properties; rhodium plating will eventually wear off |
silver | 2.5 | copper | low price point | susceptible to scratches |
platinum | 3.5 | ruthenium, iridium, platinum | hypoallergenic, will retain white color | susceptible to scratches, prongs can bend |
palladium | 4.5 | ruthenium, iridium | hypoallergenic, maintains natural white color, great luster enhances gems, naturally strong metal, lighter than platinum | susceptible to scratches, more sensitive to acids, won't take a high polish well |
tungsten carbide | 9 | carbon | hypoallergenic, low price point, maintains white color forever, looks great after years of wear | not a precious metal, can chip or shatter, can oxidize; cannot be sized |
tungsten | 7.5 | hypoallergenic, resists scratches, especially useful for brushed jewelry designs | not a precious metal; cannot be sized | |
stainless steel | 6.5 | carbon, iron | resists corrosion and staining | not a precious metal; cannot be sized |
titanium | 6 | aluminum, iron, tin | hypoallergenic, high tensile strength, resists corrosion, light weight | susceptible to scratches; cannot be sized |